Your guide to retinol and retinoid strengths Topical retinoids, including retinol, are research-proven anti-ageing powerhouses that can benefit nearly everyone’s skin. But it isn’t all about giving a youthful look. They also offer many benefits from tackling uneven tone to texture and they are available in formulations that suit a wide range of skin types and concerns. But their use comes with questions: what strength of retinol should you use for wrinkles or other signs of ageing? When and how often should you use retinoid products? Is a higher percentage always better? As always, we’ll give you the research-based solutions. What you can expect: Retinoid vs retinol: what’s the difference? Low strength Medium strength High strength Pro strength Which retinoid strength is best? How & when to step up retinoid strength Retinoid tips & tricks Retinoid vs retinol: what’s the difference? Think of the term retinoid as a blanket term for all vitamin A derivatives. Retinol is just one form of vitamin A, though probably the most well known. Other popular retinoids include retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate and retinaldehyde. Retinoids must be converted into retinoic acid to work with the skin. This is important because it’s why 0.1% retinol isn’t the same as 0.1% retinaldehyde. Let’s break it down: retinol requires two conversion steps to turn into retinoic acid, whereas retinaldehyde (AKA retinal) only requires one step. Because retinaldehyde is one conversion step closer to retinoic acid, 0.1% retinaldehyde is stronger than 0.1% retinol. Shop retinoid Low strength Retinoids (including retinol) are potent bioactive skincare ingredients, so you don’t need incredibly high concentrations to see results. Published research shows that concentrations as low as 0.1% retinol are effective for improving multiple signs of ageing and minimising the appearance of pore size, along with improving the skin’s overall healthy appearance. Low strengths of retinol usually fall between 0.01%-0.1% while the range for other retinoids varies. Low amounts of retinol and retinoids, when paired with other antioxidants, also help defend the skin against environmental damage when worn under a broad spectrum SPF during the day. Choose low-strength retinoids if... You’re a beginner to retinoids (including retinol) You have sensitive skin You’d like to promote healthy skin function & improve early, minor signs of ageing If you fall into any of these categories, our RESIST Intensive Repair Cream is a great place to start. It features stable, pure low-strength retinol alongside soothing plant extracts and antioxidants, all in a silky serum texture that helps soften early signs of fine lines, brighten and replenish the skin. You can use various types of retinoid formulas all over your body, such as skin-smoothing body treatments. These products also come in different textures like serums and lotions to suit your preference. Medium strength If you’re dealing with concerns like uneven skin tone, noticeable loss of firmness and fine lines and wrinkles, you may want to consider adding a medium-strength retinoid product to your routine. Products with medium levels of retinoids (0.2% to 0.4%) visibly improve signs of ageing more quickly than those with lower concentrations. Research has also demonstrated how they improve visible signs of environmental assault and the appearance of thinning skin. Choose medium-strength retinoids if... You have successfully used low-strength retinoids before and are ready to ramp up visible results You have anti-ageing concerns or would like to target texture, bumps & uneven tone Paula’s Choice offers two stand-out medium-strength retinoids: Our RESIST Triple Active Total Repair Serum is a potent blend of retinyl propionate, niacinamide and hexylresorcinol. This light, hydrating serum signals skin to renew & re-energise, resulting in visibly improved lines, discolouration & firmness. The CLINICAL 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment highlights a collagen-supporting blend of retinol, bakuchiol and peptides to target fine lines, deep wrinkles, enlarged pores and loss of firmness. High strength If your skincare concerns are more stubborn, consider a high-strength retinoid treatment. Deeper fine lines and wrinkles, crepey skin or skin lacking firmness, stubborn tone issues and/or bumps and flaws can benefit from strong retinol (0.5% to 1.0%) and other retinoid formulas that provide more dramatic results in a faster delivery. Choose high-strength retinoids if... You can tolerate medium-strength retinoids well You are looking for dramatic improvements to stubborn skin concerns, like deeper wrinkles and dark spots You want to achieve faster results Paula’s Choice Skincare’s CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment contains a high-strength level of potent controlled-release retinol that goes to work immediately to visibly refine pore size and diminish the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and uneven skin tone. Pro strength Pro-strength retinoid formulas build on the power of over-the-counter vitamin A offerings with advanced ingredient and formulary technology. They allow you to achieve results close to prescription-strength, tackling advanced signs of ageing and helping target more specific concerns related to texture and blemishes. Choose pro-strength retinoids if... You are an advanced retinol or retinoid user & looking for prescription-like results You are looking to target specific concerns with minimised irritation Your main skin concern is advanced ageing You have acne-prone skin Our CLINICAL PRO Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment uses next generation retinoid technology that combines retinaldehyde and oleyl adapalenate (Adapinoid®) to support cell renewal for visibly smoother, clearer & younger-looking skin. This first-of-its-kind treatment tempers irritation with a slow-release formula that also utilises encapsulation for optimised efficacy and tolerability. Which retinoid strength is best? There’s not a one-size-fits-all answer or a rule that will tell you what to use. Basically, it depends on your skin type, concern and tolerance for retinoids. To determine your tolerance, experiment with different strengths and application methods and see how your skin responds – beginning with a lower concentration. The bottom line: the right retinoid strength is the one that works for your skin type and concerns Beginners (& sensitive skin) will most likely respond best to low strength If you’re noticing intermediate signs of ageing and environmental damage, a medium-strength retinoid is a good choice High strength & pro strength work for anyone with more stubborn concerns related to ageing, bumps, texture & tone How & when to step up retinoid strength Using retinoids is a marathon, not a sprint. There’s no prize for advancing to a higher percentage as quickly as you can. In fact, speed-running your way to the most potent concentrations of retinol can bring about unwanted side effects and delay results. It’s best to use the “low and slow” approach with retinoids. Start with a low-strength retinoid, using it two-to-three times a week. If your skin responds positively, increase the usage slowly and you can eventually use the formula every night. If applying during the day, always follow with a broad spectrum facial SPF 30 or higher. There’s no need to step up strength levels or increase usage if you’re happy with the results you’re experiencing. However, if you’re looking for more visible results or your skin concerns have become more stubborn, then go for it. Once you feel you’re ready to step up to the next strength level, repeat the low and slow approach for best results. Retinoid tips & tricks Topical vitamin A products are multi-tasking skincare powerhouses; however, they can be tricky to apply, tolerate & generate results if you’re new to retinoids so be sure to: Avoid retinoids that aren’t in opaque & airtight packaging because exposure to air & light can reduce how effective they are Avoid retinoid products with fragrance as volatile aromatic compounds can irritate the skin If you're pairing retinoid benefits with BHA, AHA, vitamin C & niacinamide formulas, simply pay attention to how your skin responds when using multiple active ingredients & if your skin shows signs of irritation, then reduce the frequency of use until you find the right balance Try the sandwich method if your skin is showing signs of sensitisation due to retinoids, which means applying a light layer of moisturiser or oil, then your retinoid product and then another thin layer of moisturiser Avoid topical & oral use of retinoids if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding Try bakuchiol (the gentler plant-based alternative) if your skin just doesn’t seem to like retinoids References for this information: Clinical Interventions in Aging, December 2006, pages 327-348 Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, March 2015, pages 271-280 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2015, pages 40-46 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, December 2022, pages 625-635